The Lleyn Peninsula is the long finger of land, that thrusts out towards Ireland, forming the northern arm of Cardigan Bay, as Pembrokeshire does the southern. Approximately 35 miles long by 10 miles at its widest, at its very point lies Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli), burial place of 20,000 saints, which has drawn pilgrims to its now ruined monastery, along the pilgrims’ road, ever since the 6th century.
With its unique blend of scenery; rocky coves; sandy beaches; mountains; open countryside and wooded valleys, it provides the ideal setting for a varied holiday. There is also the added touch of “foreignness” with its unusual place-names and the Welsh language spoken around you, which makes the holiday that little different!
NEFYN is an uncommercialised historic little town, famous in the past for its shipbuilding and its herring fleet. Situated on the north coast of the peninsula, and to the southwest of the Rivals mountain range, it still retains much of its original character. At the end of its long sandy beach (safe for bathing) lies the harbour —Porth Nefyn— with its quay and cluster of whitewashed cottages at the water’s edge. The cliff-top walk to the neighbouring village of Morfa Nefyn gives a breathtaking panorama from Porthdinllaen to the Rivals, and out to Anglesey, and should be on your “must do” list of activities!
MORFA NEFYN is a pleasant quiet seaside village with its long stretch of sand, safe for bathing, and popular with families. At the far end of this bay is PORTHDINLLAEN. Owned by the National Trust, this, unbelievably now, was an important shipping centre for the Irish Trade. In 1804, seven hundred ships were anchored here, and £12,000 was raised to build new piers to improve its chances against those of the, as yet undeveloped, Holy Isle, to become the main port for Ireland. But, in 1837, with a single casting vote of the Chairman of a Commons Select Committee, its hopes were dashed. Now, all that remains of the venture is the “Whitehall”, built as a hotel in anticipation of the upsurge in travellers which never came. It stands at the water’s edge, together with the whitewashed cottages, and ... the “Ty Coch” - the last surviving inn of three which the village once supported. Beyond the village lies the sandy little cove of Lifeboat Bay, where even today the bangs of the maroons are swiftly followed by the rattle of the lifeboat down its slipway. Here too, or just around the rocky headland, grey seals can be seen basking - a sure sign of good fishing! Above, on the cliff top is the popular (and very challenging!) 27-hole Nefyn and District Golf Course, where day visitors are extended a warm welcome.
EDERN is a delightful little village, 1 mile beyond Morfa Nefyn. Public footpaths lead to the beach at Morfa Nefyn; and to those pebbly little beaches of Ty Mawr, Cwmistir, and Abergeirch, noted for its fishing.
TUDWEILIOG is a small village famous for its two good beaches — Tywyn and Porthysgaden. An enjoyable walk along the headland joins these two little coves.
DINAS is a sleepy little hamlet at the foot of Garn Fadryn. Ideal walking country.
LLANGWNNADL is a scattered village. On its outskirts is Benllech beach; beautiful, unspoilt, and with rocky cliffs. There is also PORTH COLMON, an idyllic little cove with a slipway down to the sea, famous for fishing, scuba-diving, and pleasant walks. A visit to its unique church is a must!
SARN MEYLLTEYRN nestles in the valley of the Soch; a larger community than most in inland Lleyn, drawn closely together by the steepness of its valley.
ABERDARON. A picturesque little fishing village, lies snug in its hollow, with its stone cottages and pubs, and a former Post Office designed by Clough Williams-Ellis (Portmeirion). The Cafe and Gift Shop, “Y Gegin Fawr”, is said to get its name from a communal kitchen for the pilgrims to Bardsey, but the present building is 17th century. Regular boat trips are made to Bardsey, now a bird observatory. But, pilgrims in earlier times, unable to make the crossing to Bardsey because of the weather and treacherous tidal race, made their way to Ffynnon Fair (St. Mary’s Well), where they could count their pilgrimage complete if they drank from the well’s waters and celebrated mass.
ABERSOCH, at the mouth of the River Soch, is one of the most attractive harbours on the peninsula, protected as it is by the St. Tudwals Islands. It caters well for both tourists and yachtsmen and has rapidly become one of the most important venues on the yachting calendar. With its many hotels, clubs, and inns, and its two sandy beaches, it is one of the busier resorts on Lleyn.
MYNYTHO, near Abersoch, is on the slopes of Foel Gron, and commands magnificent views on both sides of the peninsula, and northeast to Snowdonia. Good walking country, it is only two miles from Hell’s Mouth (Porth Neigwl), and one mile from Llanbedrog.
LLANBEDROG is divided by the main road; stone cottages and houses in the wooded lee of the rocky headland, which shelters the beach; and the workaday village above the road. Here you can visit its pottery, or the art gallery at Plas Glyn Y Weddw.
PWLLHELI is truly the centre of Lleyn on a Wednesday —market day—when the Maes is thronged with people gathering around its myriad of stalls. Its Victorian railway station still welcomes travellers to its two main beaches, its redeveloped promenade, its sheltered harbour, and the new marina which hosts many prestigious international sailing events. A leisure centre caters for the more active.
CRICIETH, with its truly Welsh castle overlooking the sea, its old stone cottages, and its later Victorian terraces, has a quiet charm of its own. Its two beaches, mostly pebbly, are both safe for bathing. This is home to the famous Cadwalader’s Ice Cream!
MORFA BYCHAN and BLACK ROCK SANDS - a long expanse of golden sands with rocky coves at one end. Caravan parks and camping grounds abound.
BORTH Y GEST is a picturesque little village, safe for bathing, and good for sheltered fishing. Plenty of rock pools and magnificent views across the Cob at Porthmadog, and to the Snowdonia mountain range, make it a popular choice with young families.
PORTHMADOG, famous as the slate port for the world, still retains its links with the sea with its quayside development and busy little harbour, now devoted to pleasure craft. From the harbour runs the narrow-gauge Ffestiniog Railway, which once brought slate from the quarries at Blaenau Ffestiniog, but now carries tourists to the quarries in its quaint little carriages. A lovely journey on a clear day with unrivalled views as the engine puffs its way up through the mountains to Blaenau Ffestiniog.
CAERNARFON, a designated ‘World Heritage Site’, is the capital and northern gateway to the Peninsula. Its great castle, which stands at the water’s edge overlooking the Menai Straits and the mouth of the River Seiont, completely dominates the town. Built more splendidly than other castles, even Conwy, with its polygonal towers decorated with bands of coloured stone, the castle must be explored on a visit to Lleyn.
DINAS DINLLE is a small seaside village on Caernarfon Bay, ever popular with families and a good base for touring Lleyn, Anglesey, and Snowdonia. Pleasure flights are available from the nearby Caernarfon airport.
CLYNNOGFAWR is a quiet, unspoilt little village set between the mountains and the sea. At the roadside stands the astonishingly great church of St.Beuno, built on the site of the monastery founded in the 7th century. Even as late as the 18th century, calves and lambs born with the St. Beuno mark —a natural split in the ear— were offered to the church, and the money raised from their sale stored in the chest, which can now be seen in the nave.
TREFOR is situated dramatically where quarry-scarred Yr Eifl Mountain plunges into the sea. With its jetty, popular with anglers, and sheltered little harbour, this quiet, former granite-quarrying village is an ideal centre for touring Lleyn, and Anglesey.
NANT GWRTHEYRN, situated north of the village of LLITHFAEN, is the site of the National Language Centre. Originally a remote, deserted terrace of quarry workers’ houses, the cottages have now been restored to provide accommodation for residential courses at the centre.
PISTYLL. This little village overlooks the sweeps of Morfa Nefyn and Nefyn bays, and boasts a charming little medieval church, still decorated with boughs of evergreens and mosses at Christmas and other religious festivals, candlelit, and with its floor strewn with rushes.
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Nefyn Holidays
Holiday Cottages in North Wales
